Hi, Lightbulb,
Thanks. It's really good to be back. I've had an incredibly eventful past 3 months. I think it will take me a little while to process it, but I'll tell you all, someday (how's that for a "hook"?)...
You're right that Erlangen is Protestant, but actually many of the Franconian towns are, particularly those that were "Free Imperial Cities", such as Nürnberg and Schweinfurt, were traditionally Protestant enclaves, but today have a fair mix.
In Würzburg, which is historically as Catholic as Rome itself (up until the late 18th century, non-Catholics were not allowed to spend the night within the city walls), the church is still very present, but its influence is greatly watered down compared to what it used to be. By contrast, in the immediate vicinity, the town of Kitzingen and a couple of the wine villages as you go East from Würzburg (all of which are practically walking-distance, but certainly easy cycling distance from Würzburg) are traditionally Protestant.
Then as you go north, into the Franconian Rhön region, there are enclaves of Protestant villages which resisted the restoration of the Catholic church in the late 16th/early 17th century under Bishop Julius Echter.
Some succeeded, some didn't. For example, Münnerstadt, a little market town at the northern tip of Lower Franconia, was 100% Protestant for a couple of decades and then was retaken by the bishop's troops. BTW: It has a stunning medieval parish church with an altar by the local master Tilman Riemenschneider, many of whose works are still there in Franconia in the local churches and chapels where they have stood since the 1490s. Riemenschneider's work was, as you may know, the topic of a big wandering exhibition that, five years ago, toured the Met, the National Gallery in DC, and I don't know where else in the US. I was in DC at the time, and it was a little moving to me to see the pieces of the Münnerstadt triptych in person which have been missing in Münnerstadt for centuries, and which I had only seen in pictures. But at least I have been to Münnerstadt many times and seen the remaining parts. If anyone ever wants tips for what I personally think is one of the most beautiful and culturally rich areas in central Europe, let me know - I will write you a novel.
Do I sound like a travel writer or the tourism authority for Franconia? Am I seriously off topic?
I'm sorry, folks. It's just that I am glad to be back with you. I hope everyone is well.
-m.
PS: When not in the wilds of Franconia, I am in North London.