High-wattage voltage converter

Good Lord, this thread is obviously waayy over my head. Electricity is something that comes into the house because I pay a bill every month. It makes life easier and I know better that to get it wet! Other than that, I'm a dunce! 

Paul, the only electrical item I am bringing over is a DVD player so that I can play my region 1 DVDs. What kind of whatever should I buy? I don't want to spend too much money but do want to be able to use the player.

Thanks!

Paul, the only electrical item I am bringing over is a DVD player so that I can play my region 1 DVDs. What kind of whatever should I buy? I don't want to spend too much money but do want to be able to use the player.

The average domestic DVD player uses only a very small amount of power -- Typically 50 watts or less.  (You can check the rating of your player by looking for the certification label on the rear panel.)

A transformer such as the 100VA type (order code SC5328) on this page, or the 80VA type on the Newmarket page  Matt linked to above would be quite adequate.

Remember that you'll need to get a TV which will accept NTSC video signals. 

Remember that you'll need to get a TV which will accept NTSC video signals.

Crap, don't they all? (Huge sigh) This is so complicated! Actually, I'm thinking of trying to rig it to use my computer monitor. (Makes note: must read up on this!)

Thanks for the transformer info!

Crap, don't they all? (Huge sigh)

Many modern TV sets sold in the U.K. will accept NTSC on their direct composite video inputs, but not all.   

If you have direct RGB (Red/Green/Blue) video outputs on your player and get a TV which has RGB inputs too, then it becomes immaterial, since you are then coupling the video signals direct and bypassing the NTSC/PAL encoding issues (which gives improved picture quality too, by the way).    The horizontal and vertical scanning rates are different, but well within the tolerances of almost every modern set (and the majority of older sets too for that matter, although those didn't normally offer RGB inputs).

This is so complicated!

It's actually simpler now than it was at one time.  Prior to 1985 Britain had two different TV standards in use!

Thanks, Paul. I just checked my player, which has RGB outputs, so now I'll search for a TV that has the same. Appreciate the help!

Thanks, Paul. I just checked my player, which has RGB outputs, so now I'll search for a TV that has the same. Appreciate the help!

Just about all current production TVs sold in the U.K. come fitted with one or more SCART sockets.  It's a common European standard introduced in the 1980s, but virtually unknown in North America.

The SCART system uses a large multiway connector which offers various video and audio connections.   Not every manufacturer offers all permutations, but it would be a rare set these days which doesn't provide direct RGB inputs. 

You can buy adapter cables in the stores to go from the RCA jacks on your DVD player to the SCART socket on the TV.

The SCART socket is like this:



And in case you're wondering about all these acronyms:

NTSC = National Television Standards Committee
The general standard for American TV, although commonly used somewhat loosely and erroneously to refer just to the method of transmitting color, in used in the U.S. since 1953.

PAL = Phase Alternation by Line
The color broadcast system developed in Germany and used in the U.K. since 1967.

SCART = Syndicat des Constructeurs d'Appareils Radiorécepteurs et Téléviseurs
The committee which devised the connector in question.

While searching online for a tv, I did see some that stated NTSC-compatible and some that said NTSC-compatible through SCART. I assume either would meet my needs. Thanks for the explanation of the acronyms. I always like to know what things mean...it often helps to understand the purpose, at least for me. I think I want a cheap TV, at first. Don't really watch it that much and don't want to invest a lot of money in one. Most of the ones that I looked at offered some way of connecting (reference comment above) so I don't think I'll have any problems.

I've gotta say, you are such a tech geek! I find it impressive, especially since I'm so NOT! 

I did see some that stated NTSC-compatible and some that said NTSC-compatible through SCART. I assume either would meet my needs.

Yes, and in fact in almost all cases they're the same thing.    Although NTSC compatibility via SCART (or other direct video inputs) has become commonplace, you'd have a hard time finding a domestic TV here which would actually work with NTSC via the regular antenna connection.   Once you add  the actual broadcast signal characteristics there's another whole layer of compatibility issues beyond just NTSC vs. PAL, so those "NTSC-compatible" TV sets would be no good to hook up to an antenna to receive off-air broadcasts in America.

I've gotta say, you are such a tech geek! I find it impressive, especially since I'm so NOT! 

Aw, shucks, I've just grown up with it.  I'm one of those kids who started playing around with batteries, bulbs, and bits of wire when I was about 5, then moved on to building simple radios and other gadgets a few years later.  It's been my work since leaving school, and a hobby (obsession?) for much longer, so yes, I think it's safe to say I'm a tech geek!   

Found a neat website with instructions for hooking up a computer to a TV with neat little pictures and simple instructions for the "challenged" like me!

http://www.weethet.nl/english/video_connect_pc2tv.php#tvout

The "TV out" connectors on video cards are set up to provide a normal TV signal as 525/NTSC, 625/PAL etc., so you can also feed into a VCR or DVD recorder if you wish.   That might be handy if you want to use the computer to prepare a videotape presentation of some kind.

Note that in some cases it is also possible to feed from a VCR, satellite receiver, etc. directly into a computer monitor, but as the latter work with different signals and scan rates than regular TV, you would need to make sure that the monitor can switch to the appropriate settings.

The "TV out" connectors on video cards are set up to provide a normal TV signal as 525/NTSC, 625/PAL etc., so you can also feed into a VCR or DVD recorder if you wish.   That might be handy if you want to use the computer to prepare a videotape presentation of some kind.

Note that in some cases it is also possible to feed from a VCR, satellite receiver, etc. directly into a computer monitor, but as the latter work with different signals and scan rates than regular TV, you would need to make sure that the monitor can switch to the appropriate settings.

I also bookmarked a site for this type of connection. I decided that instead of bringing a DVD player over with me for my region1s, I would put add a DVDburner drive to my computer. Cheaper and works great. I like it so much I'm thinking about adding a second one for region2s. I'd like to, eventually, hook my VCR up and burn DVDs from my home movies. That's a little down the road, though, but I'll spend free time reading up on it before I try. I figure I'll have to do some heavy research into what video and sounds cards I have now and what the specs are for doing all of this stuff but I'm in no hurry.

Hey all...I brought my Kitchen Aid Mixer (350watts), Bread Machine and my steamer.  After Rich looked online for a while, we finally ordered a Heavy duty voltage converter. Converts 220 - 240V AC mains power to 110 - 120V AC 50/60Hz and 500VA (500 Watts). Allows use of US electrical equipment with 2 or 3 pin plugs in the UK. Has two sockets. Has its own anti surge fuse protection and the voltage converter's casing is flame retarding. Made in the UK.

from this site: http://www.beststuff.co.uk/voltage_conversion.htm

We think we ordered what we needed, any comments from our technical geek squad???!!

This one?

http://www.beststuff.co.uk/autotransformer_500va.htm

That's a straight autotransformer, which is just what you need.  The product description has one little technical slip, as 500 VA (volt-amperes) is not necessarily the same thing as 500 watts.

That aside though, it looks fine for the things you listed.  The heavier motorized appliances (e.g. the 350W mixer) will take a momentary surge at switch on, but it should handle that just fine.    If it was Chinese junk with that rating I might be concerned, but the U.K.-made units tend to be much more sensibly and conservatively rated.

thats it!  Cool!  Thanks for the reply Paul, Ill post again after I use my mixer with it!  HORAY FOR KITCHEN GADGETS!!

edited to say:  This converter works great, its very well made.  The company had it shipped out to me in two days. But bummer, I didnt see on my bread machine that its 520 volts.   But, I can buy another one here, they are not to expensive.  The mixer however, they go for over 300 pounds here!  So, Im glad I got it, I can use several things I have with it.  Made cookies this week with my little mixer and was soooo happy!!! 

The last post in this thread is 2006 - any updates for a KitchenAid converter in the last 7 years?