Oh boy.....
The guy arrrives and I tell him about the faulty timer in the closet (demonstrated how you push the over ride, red light comes on and then it stops within a minute or two)
Ah, I don't think you mentioned that before. Depending upon the type of timer you can have a manual override which just turns it on until you shut it off again, or a timed "booster" override which is supposed to run for a preset period and shut off automatically (e.g. 30 or 60 minutes). It's just possible that you have a timer where the boost is designed to shut off when the element stops drawing current after reaching full temperature, in which case this symptom could be caused by a faulty element. It's highly unlikely though with the average domestic immersion timer. Usually the boost just turns on the power so that light should be on even if you didn't have a heating element connected. Anyone who knows what he's doing with these timers should be able to sort that little issue out.
If I'd come to your house and you'd told me or I'd observed that the timer was behaving that way, then it would be the timer I'd be looking at testing/replacing first, not the element. I might well take a look at the element on the cylinder too to test and check connections, but the timer would be the obvious place to start.
We still don't have a timer...now its on all of the time or I can turn it off by the wall switch. He gives a long techy excuse
It sounds as though he just bypassed the timer entirely. I don't suppose you remember any of what he said?
and long story short......total bill £452.
The cost of the (quite probably unnecessary) new element would be about £10 plus V.A.T. for most standard cylinders. (A little more if he bought it at the "Big Orange Place.") Even if we say he replaced the thermostat (again) as well, and made a 100% markup on the materials, the parts shouldn't have come to more than about £40 + tax at the very most. Even if you paid for that hose and he added a little for fuel etc., that still leaves one heck of big bill for labor for one day's work.
My outstanding question is how did he know it was the heating element that was faulty IF the timer wasn't on (meaning there was no electricity getting to the element/tank?).
He
could have tested for insulation and/or continuity with a meter, either while at the cylinder or from the wiring at the timer. Either of those tests could show up problems with the element without there being power to it. Without knowing what (if anything) he did in that respect, I couldn't be sure. From the way you describe his reaction later about finding the timer faulty though, I have to say that something doesn't sound quite right about his approach.
We did have the new shower installed and its fine.
See -- Something
has to go right!
