My experience so far has been really enjoyable. My primary supervisor has requested we meet once per week to discuss readings (which I typically send him my thoughts in advance). In addition, we meet informally for coffee at least once per week with a few others in the department (its more like a revolving door of people and discussion topics). My main seminar meets fortnightly, but there are other seminars/centres which meet as well and I sometimes attend those as well.
Compared to my work in the US, I feel more comfortable here in the UK. We are required to fly solo a lot earlier than US programs, but it's not the same kind of flying solo (I have "horror stories" of some professors in the US). It helps if you have a clear-cut research goal, especially you have had some lower-than-expected marks in courses that are unrelated to that (I had low marks in one of the 5 religious traditions which was required for my MA). Also, do work with an achievable goal. You'll have 3 years of actual time (part-timers just get this spread out over a longer period of time). Some programmes (like my friend's down in Bristol) want writing right away (he had to turn in 5,000 words by the end of his third month); but others (like mine in Glasgow) is more relaxed (my supervisor doesn't want anything until the end of this year, followed by a good draft at the end of the second year).